"Here, Harajukus fans know to show up when the doors open to secure a seat at the sushi bar. And it is here, when the prized matsutake mushroom makes its autumn appearance, that I come not only for sushi but also for dobin mushi. This seasonal specialty, served in a dobin (a ceramic vessel that resembles a teapot) offers a simple broth powerfully perfumed with the earthy, exorbitantly expensive matsutake. Clear, clean, beautiful flavors explain the appeal. If you could distill serenity, it would taste like dobin mushi."
