"FYI, I’m not affiliated with Musaafer. But because it’s such a special and pricey place, I read everything I could about it, and reflected on it for a long time, with the aim of writing a well-developed review. The concept of this restaurant sounded hyperbolically romantic: two roving chefs traversed all of India in 100-day hero’s journey, capturing gems of recipes and techniques hidden in home hearths and village kitchens, and brought them to the States with the aim of educating Americans erstwhile ignorant of the country’s diverse culinary delights. At Musaafer moo-SAH-furr , though, these dishes are not merely recreated but transformed by the chefs’ magic whisks into unrecognizable Cinderellas of their former selves. Pyaz ki kachori, a humble flour-and-onion patty, is hybridized into a Spanish-style croissant nestled next to edible flowers; Hyperabadi qubani, a goopy mess of apricots and almonds whose looks I hope belie its taste, is quite literally whipped into shape, molded into a three-dimensional fruit bejeweled with a train of sorbet and a crystallized leaf. Executive chef Mayank Istwal, quoted in PaperCityMag, described his work as “tradition with a twist.” A twist?! It’s a full revolution. I was initially jaded to learn that Musaafer did not sprout organically from a whimsical trip, but was rather a venture plotted out by a restaurant group based in Dubai. Likely the glammed-up food and elephantine space 10,600 square feet; seven unique dining rooms would feel gimmicky and inauthentic, or maybe even disrespectful to its place of origin. Instead, I found the entire staff disarmingly genuine and passionate. The dishes were crafted and plated with fanatical care and reverence. It compels me to believe owners Mithu and Shammi Malik who, when interviewed on RestaurantOwner.com’s “Corner Booth” podcast, declared themselves foodies with a unequivocal goal to preserve the authenticity of their country’s cuisine. I don’t have the experience to judge “genuineness,” but their passion is palpable, and our dining experience was transcendent. We surveyed the entire restaurant thanks to staff member Umberto, who, with seemingly unfeigned enthusiasm, noticed us gawking after our meal and offered us a tour. I’d recommend asking for one; Musaafer is a multi-modal sensory experience. Every penny of its astronomical design cost $5,000,000! was spent on obsessive detailing, from the teakwood arches evoking Rajasthani mansions to hand-painted lampshade interiors to wine stored in bird cages—a nod to India’s use of carrier pigeons. Nestled in oversized plush thrones in the “Hall of Mirrors,” which glitters with literal thousands of hand-cut glass facets, we were able to spy the main dining room below through a decorative portico, our experience heightened by uptempo world music that was subtly adjusted to the noise level of the restaurant as the evening progressed. Musaafer might’ve been pretty but impersonal. Instead, the well-trained staff perfectly performed a delicate dance between decorum and unpretentiousness, treating us simultaneously like royal guests and friends. Umberto wasn’t the only one who went out of his way to enhance our experience. The trio of hostesses who greeted us seemed earnestly delighted in learning that we were celebrating ten years together and conscientiously communicated this to the chefs, who decorated our dessert with a chocolate plaque. Cedric, our waiter, described the restaurant’s dishes with as much intimate familiarity and pride as if he had made them himself—no reliance on a notepad or rote descriptors—and engaged with me in unhurried conversation about the principles of Indian cuisine. Per the aforementioned podcast, Musaafer’s staff actually undertake an impressive month-long ! training program that details the history and culture of India so that they can situate the food in context! And one of the managers welcomed us personally and ensured we were satisfied. …I haven’t even addressed the food yet. And there’s a lot to rhapsodize about. This being our celebratory dinner, we fully"
